03 January 2023

A Superficial Crack at Fashion

Cracking off the New Year in equestrian style from top to crop, tip-top, whip-top, Davide Dato, the Italian Principal Dancer of the Staatsoper, performing at this year's Wiener Philharmoniker New Year's Concert, as seen on TV.

The 14th Duke of Bedford said that a gentleman should have no less than 30 pairs of shoes so as not to have to wear any of them more often than once a month. 

Portrait of Louis-Auguste Baron Schwiter  (1826–27) by Eugène Delacroix in The National Gallery, London 


The First Lady of The Philippines, Imelda Marcos might have said that every lady should have at least 300 odd pairs of shoes so that she would not have to wear them more than once a year.

Nike Air Force Ones (low top) the original classic from Harrods but one can get them from Louis Vuitton also. Nike is of course the ancient Greek goddess of victory in any field including art, music, war, and athletics, Victoria in Rome, now a god or goddess of sneakers 

Chelsea boots 

Play Comme des Garçons Converse high tops






Timberland boot in nubock and a Polo Ralph Lauren cap


Old Skool Vans (low top) Anaheim Factory 36 DX Edition - Der Hosenkavalier

Adidas Superstar Originals - Adidas is of course named after the German Shoemaker Adolf 'Adi' Dassler who's shoes Jesse Owens wore at the 1936 Berlin Olympics 

Vegan sneakers are now available like these Adidas Superstars, if not Originals but Organics 

French Aigle Coupe Saumur riding boots are fine for English wet weather also 

Air Force One Mids

Converse 70s high tops


Maroon Converse high tops

More recently, Admiral General Aladeen (as played by Sacha Baron Cohen in his 2012 film, The Dictator) is in a sense one of the best dressed contemporary world leaders.  

Regency uniform in the King's Bedchamber at the Royal Pavilion in Brighton 

Even more recently, face masks have significantly contributed to general elegance during the pandemic by hiding many ugly faces - even better than sunglasses. So many people would look so much better if they covered more of their faces and bodies while the opposite can apply to others. Some people look so good that even the worst clothes do not quite spoil it while arguably more or less the opposite can also apply. 


Quite rightly traditional finely tailored fashion has been praised and some more casual modern or contemporary fashion has been criticised if such a black and white contrast is rather simplistic as any style can look good or bad. Excessive formality is not always good any more than fashion casualty of the opposite kind. 

There is a time and place for everything from the formality of white tie and tails with decorations to the informality of no head or tail or tie and white sneakers - from classics to Asics, from old balance to New Balance - fashion casualties. While some people stick to traditional styles of being well dressed, others never do, being always casual, but some of us can enjoy both - each to their own.

Light destroys the white colour of sneakers to yellow but light makes the wearer's hair white over time! 

Sometimes even the old and new can be mixed elegantly even if some care may be taken to avoid bad taste, even if tastes also vary. One can combine informality with glamour, for example. There are doubtless many combinations, for example, mixing hipster sneakers with whipster equestrian style, but rather than an American baseball cap, the European whipster would call it a polo cap or jockey cap as in Master and Margarita while having to accept that the Americans are rather strong in sneakers like Converses and Vans and the Nike Air Force One while the German Adidas Original is a Superstar... Meanwhile jeans are originally of course an American cowboy's riding breeches, now riding high in fashion for decades.

Sneakers or trainers seem to have become an increasingly global, gender and otherwise neutral, modern or contemporary fashion hit of the time - scarpe diem [sic], rising from sports and informal wear to be increasingly smart or even formal as in paired up with a suit, so called dress sneakers, a crisp white brand spanking new pair with a suit to even get married in. Once upon a time not too long ago, a new employee would be booted out to get a suit on their first day in the office if they had not arrived suited and booted but now sneakers have very much stepped into the office.

Princely Indian glamour spicing up London before and during the swinging 60s 

Jagat Singh, Raja of Isarda, was described as ‘the dazzling Prince with flowing locks and flashing eyes, attired in jewels and jeans, turban and tshirt’ (Maharanis, Lucy More, p. 291). How far one might combine the traditional and the modern may be a matter of taste on which views differ. 

But the world's most fashion conscious animal is the moth who only eats the newest and best-quality clothes not touching any old rag.

National dress enriches fashion. The whole world does not need to dress the same all the time like every individual does not need to dress the same all the time. It is somewhat unfortunate, for example, that the bowler hat disappeared from the City of London. While it does not need to be worn with nationalistic totalitarian uniformity, it would nevertheless contribute to a touch of old world elegance. Maybe a Zack Pinsent will yet invade the City?

At least the English Barrister's wig is surviving 

Traditional things to wear can be combined with modern and contemporary clothes. Universal fashions can on the other hand have a unifying and maybe even egalitarian symbolism. On the other hand, Zack Pinsent of Brighton has wonderfully restored Regency elegance, adding to contemporary variety.

Fashion also evolves. In the 1980s it was youth fashion to wear no hat even in the coldest times of the Nordic winter with older people wondering if youngsters had lost their hat or head or which one they lost first. Nowadays they wear doubtless ripped jeans in the freezing cold winter - so cool that a cold may follow! A quarter of a century later the opposite is youth fashion, wearing a woolly beanie even indoors and in the warmest heat of the summer - while they clearly have not lost their hats, one may wonder about the head as much as a quarter of a century ago.

The English Singer Adam Ant (Stuart Goddard) appeared in outfits of long equestrian boots and swagger stick or cane as a charming prince. The lyrics included:

Don't you ever, don't you ever

Stop being dandy, showing me you're handsome

Prince Charming

Prince Charming

Ridicule is nothing to be scared of


There is something uniquely and supremely stylish about slim equestrian figures, man, woman and beast alike - the human being is such an ugly animal that it must wear clothes to look beautiful and even then losing the race to the horse (with some exceptions)

Grand Duke Dmitri of Russia 


Imperial Austrian Cavalry Officer 

One can wear anything or nothing, the skill is to know when to wear or not to wear whatever if anything. Any hair style can look good or bad from a long whip of a pony tail to short cropped hair. 

‘I love everything beautiful’ – Jean Sibelius said. One may not need to specify too much.


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